Improve your close-up photography with Ross Hoddinott

What makes a good macro shot?

My images tend to be quite simple. I’m always trying to create something clean and pleasing, so I work very hard on background and colour choice. Everything I do is taken in situ so I work very hard to find things that I can isolate against a diffuse background with the right type of colour texture.

What lighting is useful for macro?

I use a lot of natural light, plus sometimes one or two small LED lights. With close-up photography – and any of these lenses – you can manipulate light really easily with a bit of practice. With other wildlife, such as mammals and birds, the light is what it is. With close-up, I can use a couple of LEDs, change the intensity of the light, of the colour, warm it up or cool it down, backlight the subject… all to create a nice natural look. So I have the little lights, a reflector and a diffuser. It’s like having a tiny photographic studio that you can do anything you like with and carry in a small bag.

Is a tripod essential for close-up photography

Usually yes, but you can photograph handheld in the right situations. The more you magnify, the shallower your effective depth of field becomes, so having the camera fixed makes it much easier to fine-tune your focus and composition. The less experienced you are, the more important it is to have that stability. With working handheld, you have to understand that it’s a numbers game and you’re going to have to take quite a few images in order to get a good one. Mostly, there’s no excuse not to use a tripod, so I would recommend investing in a good travel one that’s easy to fold down and carry.

Does macro photography require specific camera settings?

I use both autofocus and manual focus, depending on the situation. Handheld, I’m more likely to use AF, with a single focus point on the part of my subject that I want to be sharp – which on an insect would normally be the eye. On a tripod, I’m more likely to switch to manual focus, refine it and use focus peaking as a guide. The reality is there’s no secret formula. Sometimes AF will be better and sometimes MF.

In terms of modes, I favour aperture priority in most situations. In close-up photography, the key is being in control of the depth of field. I turn on easy exposure compensation and, if I’m on a tripod, have the live histogram on and adjust exposure accordingly. With aperture, I’m all over the place! I prefer a really narrow depth of field but, depending on the subject and because it’s so magnified, I can be anywhere from f/2.8 to f/16 if I need to generate enough depth for the entire subject.

How does the NIKKOR 50mm f/1.4 perform close up?

It’s a really good lens – optically very good, very fast. You can get pretty close in on subjects and it would be a great lens for someone who wants to dabble in a bit of close-up photography. And you could use extension tubes to get even closer. The image quality is great, as you can see from the examples, and you get lovely bokeh. It’s light, doesn’t take up much room in the bag and is incredibly versatile.

How does the NIKKOR 50mm f/1.4 compare to the NIKKOR Z MC 105mm f/2.8 VR S and the NIKKOR Z MC 50mm f/2.8?

The main difference between the two 50mm lenses is obviously the reproduction ratio – you can get extremely close with the macro lens. But the size, weight and image quality of these two are pretty close to each other and they’re easy to work with. The downside for me with either 50mm is that you have to get very close to the subject and risk disturbing insects. But for other close-up photography such as flowers, the 50mm macro is a great lens. And with the non-macro 50mm f/1.4, you have the extra bit of aperture for more bokeh in the background. They’re all very good at what they do and all have their place. For me, the MC 105mm is my favourite, but that’s just down to the subject matter that I photograph.

What’s in macro pro Ross’s kitbag?

I have a Nikon Z8, which I love, the NIKKOR Z MC 105mm f/2.8 VR S and the NIKKOR Z 100-400 f/4.5-5.6 VR S, because it focuses really close. I also still use an older 200mm F mount lens occasionally, but it’s a bit of a tank! For my style of work, I like using the longer focal length lenses because of the narrower angle of view. I can get a cleaner background. Also, being further away from the subject makes it less likely that I’ll disturb an insect. The Z8 is just such a versatile camera. It’s got the speed, resolution and dynamic range and is loaded with features. It ticks every box for me.

Macro questions answered

What is macro photography?

Macro photography is creating images that explore the world of small things: incredible close-ups of insects, flowers and tiny objects that reveal more than our eyes normally see. True macro lenses have a reproduction ratio of 1:1, which means the subject creates a life-size image on the camera sensor.

Do I need a special camera for macro photography?

No, any Nikon Z camera, either full frame or APS-C, can be used for macro photography.

Can I take close-up images without a macro lens?

Yes, some other lenses with close focusing distances will get you close (but not as close as a true macro). Try a telephoto lens with a close focusing distance to isolate your subject and blur the background.

Where should I start?

Keep it local. You don’t need to get in the car and travel far to take great close-up images. A back garden or local park are all you need and you’re likely to do it more if it doesn’t feel like an expedition! Also, you can practise indoors with either natural or man-made objects on a tabletop next to a window. Make it easy to do and you can dip in and out for half an hour here and there. You’ll end up doing it more often and learning more.

Is there a best time of day for taking close-up images of insects?

Insects are inactive and roosting early and late in the day, which also happens to be when the light is best. Also make sure it’s not too windy – a wind speed of over 12mph will blow insects and flowers around and make it harder for you.

For a full guide to macro photography, go here. For recommended gear, go here.